The Ravenous Bugblatter Beast of Traal

The fantasy side of the exhibit is inspired by the alien planet Traal, watch out for the creature that made those foot prints!

“…avoid the gaze of the Ravenous Bugblatter Beast of Traal (such a mind-bogglingly stupid animal, it assumes that if you can’t see it, it can’t see you)…”

'The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy' by Douglas Adams


The Ravenous Bugblatter Beast of Traal is a creature that hails from the planet of Traal, and will eat anything. Despite this, the Guide did state, erroneously, that "ravenous Bugblatter beasts often make a very good meal for (rather than of) visiting tourists" in its article on the planet Traal. This led to deaths of those who took it literally. The guide's editors avoided lawsuit by summoning a poet to testify under oath that beauty was truth, truth beauty, and therefore prove that their claim, the nicer one, must be true. This led to life itself being held in contempt of court for being neither beautiful nor true, and subsequently being removed from all those present at the trial.

http://wiki.godvillegame.com/Ravenous_Bugblatter_Beast

White Lab Mice

In the HHG "mice are the physical protrusions into our dimension of a race of hyperintelligent pan-dimensional beings who commissioned construction of the Earth to find the Question to the Ultimate Answer of Life, the Universe, and Everything. As such, they are the most intelligent life form on that planet, contrary to what humans think."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_races_and_species_in_The_Hitchhiker's_Guide_to_the_Galaxy#Mic

Frankie and Benjy are the mice that Arthur (et al.) encounter on Magrathea. Frankie and Benjy wish to extract the final readout data from Arthur's brain to get the Ultimate Question. Frankie and Benjy are, after all, part of the pan-dimensional race that created the Earth as a supercomputer successor to Deep Thought in order to find out the question to which the answer was 42.

In the first version, the radio series, they offered Arthur and Trillian a large amount of money if they could tell them what the Question is. In later versions this was changed — unfortunately for Arthur, they claim the only way to do this is to remove his brain and prepare it, apparently by dicing it. They promise to replace it with a simple computer brain, which, suggested Zaphod, would only have to say things like "What?", "I don't understand" and "Where's the tea?". Arthur objects to this ("What?" he says. "See!" says Zaphod), and escapes with the help of his friends. Frankie says:

"I mean, yes idealism, yes the dignity of pure research, yes, the pursuit of truth in all its forms, but there comes a point I'm afraid where you begin to suspect that if there's any real truth it's that the entire multi-dimensional infinity of the Universe is almost certainly being run by a bunch of maniacs; and if it comes to a choice between spending another ten million years finding that out and on the other hand just taking the money and running, I for one could do with the exercise"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minor_characters_from_The_Hitchhiker%27s_Guide_to_the_Galaxy#Frankie_and_Benjy_Mouse

'The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy' by Douglas Adams

Peony Care

The peony pictured here and in the exhibit is the varietal 'Cora Louise'

Peony Care:

Peonies are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).

If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.

Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.

One special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.

To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.

Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.

A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.

Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.

There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.

http://www.gardeners.com/Peony-Care/8106,default,pg.html

Azalea Care

The Azalea pictured here and in the exhibit is Rhododendron 'Millie Mac'

Caring for Outdoor Azaleas:

Caring for azalea plants isn’t difficult at all if a few simple cultural requirements are met. Azaleas (botanically, Rhododendron species) are members of broad family of acid-loving plants which includes heathers, laurels, and blueberries. These so-called “Ericaceous” plants (after Erica, the genus name for heather) thrive in moist, organic soils with a relatively low pH level of 4.5 to 5.5, meaning that it is fairly acidic. The azalea plants sold by florists are generally evergreen, and can be safely planted outdoors in areas where the average minimum winter temperature doesn’t fall below 0 to -10 degrees F. In colder climates (north of Zone 6), they are best grown in greenhouses.

Pruning Azaleas:

Azaleas grow slowly and rarely need pruning. However, to maintain them at a certain size or to increase the density of their growth, azaleas may be pruned immediately after they’ve completed flowering, just as the new growth is being produced. These shrubs bloom each spring on the previous season’s growth, having formed buds by summer’s end, so don’t prune them after early summer lest you sacrifice next year’s flowers.

Fertilizing Azaleas:

Properly caring for azalea plants includes regular feeding to promote healthy growth and copious flowers. Choose a fertilizer which has been specially formulated for acid-loving plants, such as camellias, hollies, and rhododendrons, and apply according to the manufacturer’s directions during the growing season. Azaleas can sometimes suffer from a condition known as chlorosis, a mottled yellowing of the leaves with the veins remaining green. This is caused by low acidity or a lack of iron in the soil, and may be remedied by the application of liquified iron.

With just a little tender loving care, your azalea plants will flourish for generations, rewarding you each spring with bouquets of lovely flowers to grace your landscape or garden, and reminding you always of the gifts they represent. Consult your local professional florist and brighten someone’s life with a beautiful blooming azalea.

http://www.flowershopnetwork.com/blog/newsletter-may-2003/

Silverbell Tree

A beautiful little tree. Pictured here and in the exhibit is Halesia carolina 'Jersey Belle'.

Halesia carolina, commonly called little silverbells, is a species of flowering plant in the family Styracaceae, native to southeastern USA. It is a vigorous, fast-growing deciduous shrub or tree growing to 8 m (26 ft) tall by 10 m (33 ft) broad, bearing masses of pendent, bell-shaped white flowers which appear in spring before the leaves. The flowers are followed by green, four-winged fruit. The leaves turn yellow in autumn.

'Jersey Belle' Carolina Silverbell has very large white bell-shaped flowers that hang thickly under the branches in May. Foliage turns an attractive yellow in fall and the bark adds winter interest with its contrasting striations. Halesia carolina (formerly tetraptera) 'Jersey Belle' was named and introduced by Princeton Nurseries.

In cultivation in the United Kingdom, H. carolina Vestita Group has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

http://www.pleasantrunnursery.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/plants.plantDetail/plant_id/1294/index.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halesia_carolina

Cymbidium Orchid Care

Pictured here is a typical cymbidium flower.

Considered among the easiest of all orchids to grow and care for, cymbidium orchids are terrestrial orchids, meaning they grow in the soil relying on it for nutrients, in contrast to epiphytic orchids that often grow on the trunks of trees and extract moisture from the humid air that surrounds their exposed roots. Cymbidium orchids are native to mountainous regions of middle and Southeast Asia and thrive in warm climates with ample water and cool evening temperatures. They have grass-like green foliage and from February until late March, cymbidiums send up tall stalks atop which bloom spectacular flowers in shades of yellow, rose and cream. The tall stalks make excellent floral arrangements and they last well when placed in a vase filled with cool water.

Light:
During the growing season, cymbidiums appreciate dappled sunlight, or about 50 percent shade. They can be moved outdoors in the summer, providing they are not put into direct sunlight. A few hours of weak morning sunlight and shady afternoons is perfect. Move the cymbidiums outside after the threat of frost has passed. If you're growing them indoors, a southeast or east window is perfect. Your leaves should be apple green, as opposed to dark green. A dark green plant is likely not receiving enough sunlight to provoke a good bloom.


Water:
Copious water during the growing season (spring, summer and fall). The purer the water, the better the plants. Accumulated salts in tap water can damage the plants, so make sure they are well flushed every time you water the plant. During the winter bloom, reduce watering dramatically, but don't let the plant dry out. Keep the potting media slightly damp to the finger. Plants that are affected by the salt build-up in tap water will exhibit leaf-tip dieback, a condition in which the leaf tips turn black and die.


Fertilizer:
During the growing season, feed with a weak orchid fertilizer bimonthly or scatter slow-release pellets in the growing media at the beginning of the season. Be careful to avoid a high nitrogen fertilizer as this will cause rapid foliage growth at the expense of the bloom.


Temperature:
Cymbidiums are considerably more cold tolerant than some other popular orchids. The large, older cymbidiums need an extended period of cold to provoke a bloom, while the miniatures aren't quite as dependent on cold weather to bloom. Cymbidiums have been known to briefly withstand freezing temperatures, although frost will kill them. Nights down to 40ºF are fine. On the other side, cymbidiums can also withstand considerably summer heat without wilting, as they are suited to the temperate regions of Asia where there is considerable variation in seasonal and day/night temperatures.

Blooming:
The cymbidium bloom is triggered by a combination of falling temperatures and reduced water. The miniatures have generally been crossed with warm-house orchids, so they aren't quite as dependent on cold weather to bloom, but it's still an important part of cymbidium culture. The natural bloom season is during the winter, when your plants should be indoors and available for display. Cymbidium flowers grow in sprays, with spikes arising from new pseudobulbs every season.


Potting and repotting:
Cymbidiums are semi-terrestrial orchids. They naturally grown in loamy humus, sending thin roots into the mixture. Thus, they are perfectly suited to the conditions most easily provided at home: a rich, loose, organic potting mixture. Most growers recommend using fir bark, perlite, peat moss, and other loose organic material in some combination. A commercial paphiopedilum mix will usually serve these plants well. Cymbidiums can be easily divided during repotting in the spring.


Grower's Tips:
Cymbidiums are wonderful orchids to grow in the middle and coastal regions of the United States and other temperate countries. They can be grown outside during the spring, summer and fall, and moved back inside at the first threat of frost. During the summer, they will grow quickly, sending up new pseudobulbs topped with long, strappy leaves. The flowers are on display during the winter months. A well-grown cymbidium is resistant to most insects, but as with all orchids, there is some risk of aphids, scale and other insects. Treat with standard products, always following label directions.


http://www.ask.com/explore/cymbidium-orchid-care
http://houseplants.about.com/od/growingorchidsinside/p/Cymbidiums.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cymbidium

Laeliocattleya Orchid Care

Pictured above is Laeliocattleya 'Candy Corn'

Cattleyas are among the most commonly grown orchids, and their culture is often used as the basis for comparison with other types of orchids. Like most other cultivated orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes, or air plants. They have well-developed water-storage organs (called pseudobulbs) and large, fleshy roots. They should be potted in a porous, free-draining medium. The most commonly used are fir bark, shredded tree-fern fiber, various types of rock, processed coconut fiber and lately, mixes based on peat moss and perlite. Keep out of cold, dry air while in bloom.

Light:
Sufficient light is important for healthy growth and flower production.
Provide Bright light, some sun. In the home, an east, west or lightly-shaded south window. In a greenhouse, about 30 to 50 percent full sun. Under lights, four 40 watt fluorescent tubes and two 40 watt incandescent bulbs directly over plants. Plants should be naturally erect, without need of much staking, and of a medium olive-green color. Dark green, limp foliage indicates too little light.

Temperature:
Mature plants need a 15 to 20 F difference between night and day.
Provide Nights of 55 to 60 F; days of 70 to 85 F. Cattleyas can tolerate temperatures up to 95 to 100 F if shading, humidity and air circulation are increased. Seedling cattleyas need temperatures five to 10 degrees higher than mature plants.

Water:
Mature plants must dry out between waterings. Seedlings need more constant moisture.

Humidity:
Cattleyas need 50 to 60 percent. In the home, place on trays over moistened pebbles. In greenhouse, us a humidifier if conditions are too dry.

Fertilizer:
Must be provided on a regular basis because most potting media have little.
Provide The exact fertilizer you use will depend on the mix in which your plant is growing. A good general rule is to use a balanced (10-10-10, 12-12-12 or similar ratio) fertilizer "weakly, weekly." That is, fertilize every week at one quarter to one half of the recommended dilution.

Potting:
Should be done every two to three years in spring before mix loses consistency (breaks down). Pot firmly in media that have good aeration and ample drainage, allowing enough room for two years' growth.

Zygopetalum Orchid Care

This handsome, glossy-leaved orchid hails from low to mid elevation regions of South America. Of the 15 species of Zygopetalum, many are terrestrial. With multiple blooms that often in flower for 8 weeks, they make excellent cut flowers and are used commercially for this purpose. This orchid's generic name is derived from the Greek term for "'yoked petal,"' referring to the yoke-like growth at the base of the flower lip.

Temperature:
Zygopetalum orchids will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they have mild nighttime temperatures between 50-65 degrees F. Exposure to cold temperatures (down to 28 degrees F) for a few hours each night will not damage an acclimatized plant, but once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from temperatures below 35 degrees F. Always keep these plants free from frost.
Light: Your Zygopetalum enjoys the morning and afternoon sun but should be protected from hot midday sunlight. A light green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates that the plant is receiving the maximum amount of sun it can take; a dark green leaf indicates that it needs more sunlight.

Water: 
Watering of Zygopetalum is a delicate balancing act. They should not be allowed to go dry, yet they don't care for a soggy environment either. Watering once every seven to ten days is about right. As with everything else, special consideration must be given for the drying effects of varying ambient air temperature and humidity.

Feeding: 
High nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) should be used from February until July, while low nitrogen fertilizers (6-25-25) should be used from August until January. Feed one teaspoon to a gallon of water once a month.

Repot: 
Repot every two to three years from February to June with a well-draining medium. Fine bark is suitable in mild summer climates, while a finer medium Orchid Mix works well in warmer summer areas.

http://www.beautifulorchids.com/orchids/orchid_care_tips/individual_care/zygopetalum.html